Croatia – If Carlsberg did holidays…
- charlotteday8
- Sep 6, 2015
- 7 min read
The rising star of the Adriatic
I may have been a little late to the Dalmatian Coast party, but having ventured into the cultural hub that is Croatia, it is one fiesta I’ll be raving about for some time. It is hard to believe a country that plays host to over 10 million sun seekers a year didn't affirm it’s status in the mainstream holiday market until the late Nineties.
Prior to booking the holiday, my boyfriend and I were decided that island hopping would be the best way to explore Croatia, so chose to stay for two nights in four locations. Island hopping perfectly catered to our culture vulture needs and allowed us to make the most of each visit, leaving us with the desire to return to unfinished business.
Split – The Hopeless Romantic
Split was the first of the four destinations and, for me it was love at first sight. This quant and romantic town in mainland Croatia was my favourite of the four places we visited. I use the term ‘favourite’ loosely as it was a very close call between all four locations; but this white stoned Haven won the running by the skin of its teeth.
I always find choosing the travel outfit a struggle; you want to be comfy and warm but at the same time you want your outfit to cry ‘sun, come at me!’ Well, I can safely say that on this particular journey, I most definitely got my outfit wrong. Unfortunately, I opted all too keenly for comfort and wore black leggings and a black jumper; not one of my proudest moments and once we disembarked the plane, I immediately regretted my choice of clothing, suffering at the hands of the burning sun during the walk from the coach station to the hotel room. Thankfully my boyfriend’s orientation skills are second to none and we found our hotel in hardly any time. Needless to say, I promptly climatised myself to the weather and changed into something far more suitable. You live and learn.
Alight with excitement and anticipation, we wasted no time in exploring this hidden gem of a town. We soon found ourselves amidst historical sites, elegant outdoor cafes and the odd palm tree dotted around. Every time we walked past a restaurant, the mouth-watering smells of scrumptious Mediterranean cuisine would wash over us. Eating out in Split didn’t break the bank and we felt that we definitely got value for our money. From Caprese salad and olives to stone baked melt-in-your-mouth pizzas to FroYo and crepes, we soon drew the conclusion that Croatia was definitely our kind of place!
As well as getting lost down the pretty white stone alleys, lazing on the beach and eating our weight in yummy food and drinking just as much coffee; we paid a visit to some of the historical sights. From the dizzy heights of the Bell Tower where we were able to take in the most beautiful scenic views, to the cavernous depths of the eerie Crypt which hides beneath the Cathedral.
View from the Bell Tower.
Split oozes luxury, class, peace and relaxation and is quite simply, beautiful. It is a diverse hub bubbling with culture and romance and I will be sure to pay it another visit in the not too distant future!
Split. A view from the top.
Hvar – The Glamour Puss
Leaving Split with a heavy heart, we embarked upon our journey to Hvar. The way to travel to each island in Croatia is by ferry and I loved how easy and quick this method of transport was (despite my sea sickness). It took us no longer than an hour and a half to make our way from Split to Hvar. I would definitely recommend booking the ferry at least a day before you travel as they become fully booked very quickly.
As we docked into Hvar it was soon blindingly evident why this island was referred to as the ‘playground of the rich and famous’; the orange brick, white stone pavements, luxury yachts and glamorously clad holiday-makers soon affirmed that label. Hvar is glamour and charm to a tee.
Hvar; the resting ground for Yachts.
We arrived mid morning and it took us a little longer than in Split to find our accommodation. Once we dumped our bags we headed out for some lunch and a coffee. We then took a long stroll exploring the island and soaking up the sun. Dinner is always my favourite part of the day when on holiday; I love the dressing up and the promise of a delicious meal. Hvar certainly delivered on that promise! The first evening I enjoyed a scrumptious bowl of pasta and on the second night a whole sea bass – just divine.
On our second day on the island we booked ourselves a boat for the day and armed with a cool bag brimming with bread, fruit, cheese, meats and sweet treats, we were ready to set sail at the impressive (in our opinion anyway) time of 9am! The day was so much fun and it was a great way of taking in all the breathtaking views of the mini islands and vast crystal blue waters. We stopped a few times for a swim and found some areas of land that were perfect for disembarking the boat and sunbathing on. To rent the boat for the whole day, it cost us £50 – bargain!
View from St Stephen's square.
Again, our last night in Hvar was a sad one as we didn’t want to leave! However, we were excited and eager for the following adventure. Next step…Korcula!
Korcula – The Humble One
We arrived in Korcula on the Saturday morning and immediately could see the contrast between the humble and unassuming nature of this island and the glamour and opulence synonymous with Split and Hvar. However, that is not to say that Korcula doesn’t boast a certain style of its own. If Split and Hvar are reminiscent of Barcelona, Korcula is reflective of the less affluen, older, but naturally beautiful landscapes and buildings of Cefalu.
Idyllic.
On our first night in Korcula, we enjoyed a drink by the waterside while a little band played their own versions of popular classics, drawing in the crowds. Drinking great local wine, basking in tropical heat and listening to a live band…at this moment, I was in Heaven!
The next day we rented a couple of bikes, which allowed us to explore the rustic charm of the island further. We cycled to Lambada beach, sunbathed and ate pizza and salad before heading back. This was yet another fun day filled with a mixed bag of treats. I would highly endorse organizing a few days dedicated to some kind of activity that allows you to draw yourself into the depths of the culture and landscape of Coratia because there is just so much to see. That night we ate in the best restaurant we went to during the whole holiday called ‘Aterina’. We found this diamond on Trip Advisor (I’m a massive advocate for that website), and so happy we did! The food here was exquisite and my mouth waters remembering my main of goats cheese wrapped in aubergine, baked in a delicious ragu, topped with parmesan shavings. Yummy. The restaurant’s speciality was ‘basil’ cake so of course we ordered a slice and it was delicious – I know it sounds so wrong, but it tasted so right.
Mountanous views of Korcula. Quant alleyway in Korcula.
Earlier I mentioned the value of booking ferries at least a day in advance of your departure. Unfortunately when we went to book the ferry the day before we were set to leave Korcula, they were all fully booked until 4.30pm which meant we were to arrive into Dubrovnic at about 6.30/7pm – losing a day of valuable sightseeing! So I want to stress again how important forward planning and booking in advance is in Croatia.
Pre-dinner roof top lounging.
Dubrovnik – The Walled City
The ferry from Korcula to Dubrovnik took longer than our previous transfers; it took just under two hours and a half. Which still isn’t too bad, considering the fact you’re travelling from an island, back onto mainland. Once we docked into Dubrovnik, we took a fifteen-minute bus ride to Old Town and as soon as we were outside the huge 16th Century walls encircling the Old Town, I was speechless. As you enter the walls and step into the Old Town you feel as though you’re in your own little bubble of culture and history, separated from the world. The huge walls and renaissance buildings envelope you as you explore the town ensuing a feeling of safety and exclusivity.
Distinctive orange roofs of Dubrovnik.
As we arrived that night just in time for dinner, we quickly checked into our accommodation, freshened up and headed out. Unfortunately, as Dubrovnik is mainland Croatia and a honey trap for tourists, it is a little pricier to eat out than in the previous places. We ended up eating at a restaurant within the square, which unfortunately we weren’t overly impressed by. My sea bass was very oily and didn’t taste incredibly fresh while my boyfriend’s chicken was slightly raw in the centre – salmonella poisoning certainly wasn’t on our agenda for this holiday!
Me, none the wiser...
The next day we did the tourist thing and walked along the walls that surrounded Old Town and the views were breath taking. It is incredible to think that these stone walls have surrounded the Old Town and protected its citizens since before the 7th Century! That evening we ate in a restaurant down one of the alleys near our Bed and Breakfast where the food was a lot more tasty than the previous evening. After dinner we sat down for a drink at an outdoors bar where we enjoyed front row seats to a live jazz band. The perfect end to the perfect holiday.
Walls of Dubrovnik.
I never relish a holiday ending but I was particularly saddened to be leaving Croatia. It is most certainly one of my favourite destinations in the world and I just can’t wait to go back and explore the other islands – and possibly a little trip back to Split while I’m at it!
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